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Professional Vegetarian Cooking,
by Ken Bergeron Reviewed by John D. Borders, Jr., J.D.
Many restaurants across the country are trying to
serve more meatless fare these days because of an
increasing consumer demand. But often they strike
out because the quality of their vegetarian food
doesn’t match that of their meat-and-dairy-laden
counterparts. With the release of Professional
Vegetarian Cooking, chefs everywhere will find it
easy to put spectacular plant-based options on their
menus.
As one of only three professional vegan cooks with
Certified Executive Chef status in the American
Culinary Federation, Chef Ken Bergeron is quite well
known within the vegetarian community. His annual
appearances at the North American Vegetarian
Society (NAVS) Summerfest are always a highlight of
the festival. Chef Bergeron has also presented for
several EarthSave groups.
Professional Vegetarian Cooking is a great resource
for chefs, not only because the recipes are spectacular,
but also because it offers a clear explanation of
why restaurants might want to serve vegetarian
dishes and why restaurant patrons choose vegetarian
diets in the first place.
The first Gold Medal winner for all-vegan savory
foods presentations at the Culinary Olympics in
Germany, Chef Bergeron presents an amazingly
creative array of recipes in his first cookbook. From
the simple “Carrot Hazelnut Spread” to the complex
“Vegetable Walnut and Pecan Terrine,” the appetizer
section is vast enough to cover any dinner party or
seasonal menu. The “Winter Squash Hazelnut
Bisque,” the “Mushroom Cashew Crème Soup” and
the “Corn Chowder” prove that the use of nuts and
nut butters can give vegan soups all of the richness
and complexity of cream-based soups. Indeed, the
corn chowder is positively the best chowder you will
ever eat.
The “Salad” chapter showcases Chef Bergeron’s
interest and skill in working with all varieties of
mushrooms. And recipes such as “Sea Czar Salad
with Blackened Tofu” and “Ruby Grapefruit,
Pomegranate and Assorted Greens” exhibit his skill
in juxtaposing ingredients in a way that makes you
think that they were created in nature side-by-side
with one another.
Professional Vegetarian Cooking divides entrees into
categories of vegetable-based, pasta-based, bean- and
grain-based and alternative protein-based main
dishes. There are enough recipes here (all vegan) to
keep any chef or home cook busy for a lifetime.
There’s plenty of room for the creative cook to try
variations too. For example, I substituted tempeh the tofu in the “Blackened Tofu with
Tarragon Shallot Cashew Butter Sauce”
and tried it out on a dinner party for 25.
It was a big hit, especially with the
omnivores in the crowd.
Chef Bergeron also offers more than 30
vegan desserts with simple, easy-to-follow
directions. The “Chocolate Zucchini
‘Nanny’ Cake,” served with “Corn Crème
Anglaze” is amazing; the “Garnet Yam
Cake with Carmel Vegan Icing” is
delicious; but the “Chocolate Almond
Tart” (when served with the “Raspberry
Dessert Sauce”) is the best (and easiest to
make) chocolate dessert going. In fact, in
Louisville, EarthSave and the Kentucky
Humane Society have served this recipe
with great results to more than 600
people. And the audience never knew they
were eating a healthy dose of tofu!
This is a cookbook for any restaurant or home cook
who wants recipes that will dazzle a crowd. And since
the recipes are easy to scale down, and generally to prepare, they will also dazzle the whole family.
Vegan cooking will never be the same.
Chocolate Almond Tart
From Professional Vegetarian Cooking, by Ken
Bergeron. Reprinted by permission.
This recipe can be formed in an 8-inch or 9-inch
spring form pan. The smaller pan will produce a
taller dessert.
Crust
| Toasted almonds | 1 cup |
| Dairy-free granola | 1 ½ cups |
| Maple syrup | 1 tablespoon |
| Soy margarine | 1 tablespoon |
| Apple juice | 2 tablespoons |
| Almond extract | ¼ teaspoon |
Filling
| Chocolate chips, semi-sweet, dairy-free | 3 cups |
| Extra-firm silken tofu | 3 ½ cups |
| Maple syrup | 4 tablespoons |
| Vanilla extract | 2 teaspoons |
| Almond extract | 1 teaspoon |
For the crust, reserve a few almonds for garnish, then put all the remaining crust ingredients into a food processor
and process to a coarse mixture that sticks together. Turn out the crust mixture into the spring form pan and
evenly coat the bottom, making it slightly higher at the edges.
For the filling, melt the chocolate chips over barely simmering water. As chocolate melts put all other filling
ingredients into the food processor and process until smooth. Add the melted chocolate and process until
completely incorporated. Taste the mixture and adjust if needed.
Reserve about 1 cup of the filling and chill. Turn the remaining mixture into the crust-lined spring form pan.
Smooth the top, cover the pan and chill for 2 hours. Put the reserved chilled chocolate filling into a pastry bag
fitted with a star tip and pipe decorations around the top edge of the tart. Chop the reserved toasted almonds and
sprinkle on top. Chill to firm up the piping work. Using a sharp pointed knife, wipe with a damp towel between
each slice, and cut and serve. The point of the knife will help loosen the slices from the pan.
(Note: You can skip the piping step and include the extra cup of filling in the tarts.)
Serves 12-16. Serve with Raspberry Dessert Sauce, if desired.
Variation: The soy margarine could be omitted from the crust and replaced with a little more juice to bind it. It
will, however, be a little more crumbly. Other juice flavors could be used. Use hazelnuts in place of the almonds.
The filling can be used as a frosting.
Raspberry Dessert Sauce
| Fresh raspberries | ½ cup |
| All-fruit seedless raspberry jam | ½ cup |
| Apple-raspberry juice | ½ cup |
Blend all ingredients until smooth. Chill before serving. Strain to remove the seeds if desired. Makes 12 two-tablespoon
servings.
Variation: Plain apple juice could be used in the recipe. Frozen raspberries (measured frozen) work well. A grind
or two of black pepper from a pepper grinder and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar can be used to enhance flavor.
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